Time to try out the pattern and see where it needs adjusting. I'm just using a piece of white cotton here. The side back and back went together well. The side front needed a little adjustment at the armhole. Nothing major.
But after I fit it to the doll, it was gaping at the armhole so I ripped it out almost to the dart to take in the side front.
The new seam pinned. I took the extra fullness only out of the side front piece and the corresponding pattern piece.
Fits much better in the armhole area now. I didn't change the dart points on the muslin but I did on the pattern. The side seams are basted together for a fitting.. I decided that it needed to be nipped in at the waist a bit and at the top of the center front just a tad. At this time I also decided I wanted to widen the neckline and drew it on with a heat erasable marker.
I also decide to nip in the waist in the back just a bit. Other than that, I'm happy with the way the back is fitting. I cut a 3/8" seam for the back opening because I plan to put a zipper in this one. Shout out to Tamara Casey of Fletcher Pattern Company. She's the only one I know of who sells 12" zippers. The standard 4 1/2" just isn't long enough.
I've redrawn the new neckline and trimmed the pattern pieces where I nipped in the waist. You can see the new dart drawn on the front piece.
To try out the collar, I just trimmed away all of the seam allowances except for the neck edge.
I stitched the collar to the right side of the bodice , clipped the seam and then top-stitched the seam allowance down to the inside.
With the doll on the stand, I realize that I need to add more length as I plan on a petticoat under the dress. So I added another 7/8", which included a small rolled hem. I only plan to line this as far down as the flounce.
With everything but the bust dart adjusted, I'm pretty satisfied with the fit now but I'm still wondering if I should lower the vee of the neckline a little more. I didn't bother with the back flounce because I know it's going to be longer than the front, and you can see that it's going to be a very full, dramatic skirt. My measurements are accurate so I'm not too concerned about the sleeves fitting either so I didn't set those in. The bodice was my main focus.
But when looking at the back and gauging that the flounce starts below her knees, I decide to lengthen the upper skirt pieces to create more of a sweep in the back. Also, looking at the picture of the original dress, the length of the upper skirt and the length of the flounce appear to be about equal.
So I taped pieces of my paper to the bottoms and drew a new cutting line. So that's about it. Hours of work put in already and I haven't even cut out the actual dress. I think this would be really pretty in silk tissue taffeta and it's going to take close to a yard. But what color to use? I have white but I'm not really big into bridal. I'm thinking a jewel tone would give it drama. What do you think?
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